I am an atheist. I describe myself as a Brahmin atheist. Go figure.
My atheism doesn’t stop me from appreciating my country’s ancient culture or from admiring Her timeless art. Thus, my on-going efforts to learn Sanskrit and understand our scriptures, and thus, my visits to historic temples that our country has thousands of.
I carry a high-end camera on my temple visits, and when permitted by the priests inside, I shoot as many images as I can. It’s an expensive pastime, but it’s worth it.
I never visit a temple without researching its history and, last weekend, after suitable preparations, I paid a visit to Magadi. This historic town is about 50km from my home in Bangalore. There are several temples here that meet my criteria for historicity, popularity and most important, willingness to permit photography.
Remember though, that there are very few temples that permit direct photography of the primary deity. Most of them will permit photography outside the sanctum sanctorum, especially if you offer a generous donation (for which you will be given a proper receipt, don’t worry). Always ask about photography first.
So prepared, I paid a visit to the Someshwara temple at Magadi. Correctly known as Shri Prasanna Someshwara Devasthana, this ancient temple was established by Kempe Gowda in 1512. This is what the priest told me, and what is mentioned in the temple’s website.
Kempe Gowda and his descendants were patrons of this temple. It is said that Kempe Gowda held court here and dispensed local justice. He also planted a Bilva tree (Wood apple), that still survives.
The notable features of this temple are its Yali pillars. A yali is a mythical creature, analogous to a gargoyle, that you will find in temples across south India. Usually, Yalis are seen in pillars and supporting structures around a temple. When you visit any temple, ask the priest about them.
And pay attention to the carved columns inside the main temple. There is a shrine dedicated to Shiva’s consort, Parvati, and also a shrine to Nandi, Shiva’s mount. Don’t forget to take a look at the Nandi tower a few meters outside the temple.
The temple is quite well maintained, although the main gopuram was knocked down by a lightning strike about a century ago. The Archaeological Survey of India has yet to get around replacing the gopuram.
Two brothers, Praveen and Arun Dixit, are the presiding priests here. I met Arun Dixit, and he was a genial, helpful person. It’s best to visit the temple between 8.30am and 10am. Please offer a contribution of Rs 200/- or more to the priest. An official receipt will be given to you. Of course, you can also have an “archana” done for your family.
The place is easily located on GPS. The road from Bangalore is pretty good, right upto the temple which is on a hillock. Carry your own food and water. Magadi town is not noted for high-quality eating houses.
You should also visit the Ranganathaswamy temple, which is located off the highway, 10km before the Someshwara temple. More about this temple in my next blogpost.
Bottomline: A nice place for the family to visit, and a pleasant one-day drive from Bangalore. Strongly recommended.
Cheers … Srini.
Bombay Dak 